Santorini

And with that, we’re off to Greece! When we were planning this trip, we kept saying “I hope we have time for Greece.” At some point in our travels, we realized that if we hoped so much, we better just make sure we get here. Traveling to the Grecian Islands was highly recommended by Aunt Lorelle when Nolan asked her where we should go.  Since then, we’ve heard several more people talk about how wonderful it is on the islands.  And here we are!


It’s still very sunny here in October, but there are fewer tourists on the island since it’s past the summer season.  This is a good thing, since Santorini is one of the most popular islands.  A taxi driver told us that in August there are planes constantly flying in, and the roads are filled with traffic at all times of day.  Now is much more reasonable, still lots of tourists, but no traffic, and only the occasional sound of a plane arriving or departing. 

Santorini is spectacular.  This is the most beautiful place we’ve been (in terms of natural beauty) since Norway and Iceland.  On our first day here, we walked over to Fira (the main touristy town) and immediately understood all the fuss about Santorini.


Look at that view.  There are hundreds of hotels built into the cliff walls with swimming pools and outdoor lounges all taking advantage of that view.
 

We decided to hike from our hotel in Karterados to Oia.  The walk is about 13km and included constant spectacular views of Santorini’s cliffs, and the ocean far below. 


We made a detour out to Skaros Rock, a small peninsula that gave us 270° views of the brilliantly blue ocean.  It was a lot of steps down, but surprisingly felt like a lot fewer on the way back up.


A lot of the hike was right next to different hotels and places for tourists to stay. Pretty much every building on Santorini is whitewashed.  Even though it’s not pure natural beauty, the hotels built into the cliffs have their own charm.  The perfectly painted white buildings and very blue swimming pools matching the sea complement and enhance the island’s natural beauty.


In Oia, sunsets are a BIG deal.  We timed our hike to get there with plenty of time to watch.  First, we found a table and enjoyed a milkshake in a café with a gorgeous view.


As the sun was about to set we joined the crowds on the hillside. That’s right, crowds. In Oia, every night everyone comes out to watch the sunset.  Luckily we’re traveling after the end of the usual tourist season, so it was pretty easy for us to find a nice spot.  Once the sun dips below the horizon, everyone starts clapping and cheering.  According to tradition, the clapping shows appreciation and the hope for an encore :).  It was fun to clap and cheer along.  Oh yeah, and meanwhile, about every five minutes, five or so donkeys climbing the stairs pass by!


Our hotel on Santorini wasn’t in one of the main tourist towns with views of the cliffs, but it turned out to be in a great location for another reason. It was just a short walk away from Erotokritos bakery, the best bakery on the island.


Every day we went there to get some coffee and breakfast. Pretty much everything we bought from there was great. On the first day, we got an eggplant, tomato, cheese sandwich that was absolutely fantastic. The next day, I [N] just wanted to get two of them since it was so good. Instead we got a different cucumber sandwich that was also good, but didn’t come close to the “eggplant sammy” (so named by Nolan). On our last day here, Monisha caved and we feasted on a delicious breakfast of two entire eggplant sammies.


At the bakery, we also ate a custard phyllo dough pastry, an incredibly delicious chocolate mousse with candied hazelnuts and almonds on top, and a koulouri thessalonikis. Koulouri was something I [M] had read was a traditional Greek bakery item, so I asked the woman there what it was. As soon as the woman understood, she eagerly handed over a Greek bread ring and asked me what else she wanted. It looked underwhelming, but she didn't speak English very well, so I couldn't quite get across that I didn't actually want to buy it, I just wanted to know what it was. But it was 50 euro cents, so whatever. It ended surprising us by how yummy it was. Not out of this world, but it tasted like a very good sesame bagel. Other purchases included a regular baklava, chocolate baklava, spanakopita, pizza slice, and a Freddo cappuccino (which is like a sweet iced cappuccino with tons of foam, and seems to be a specialty here).

  

On one day we took a bus over to Perissa, one of the beach towns on the island.  Beaches here are almost all black sand.  We bought some rose at a cafe and lay down on beach chairs they provided to relax and read.



More food!

One day, we went to a restaurant with a gorgeous view of the non caldera side of the island. It was pretty far away from most of the hubbub of the island, but the restaurant is considered the best on the island. They started us off with raki (Greek hard alcohol), olives, cheese, and little toasts. We ordered a baked cheese with a fried outer covering and some sort of jam…Not actually sure exactly what any part of that (the kind of cheese, fried outside, kind of jam) was :) Then we had steak and a pork dish which was special because of the sauce. I [M] am pretty confident it’s the same sauce as the one in the Greek Lemon Chicken and Pasta dish Adrienne’s parents Lori and Dave make…i.e. totally amazing. They brought us a house dessert, which was a Greek cheesecake with jam on top. Very different from American cheesecake – lighter.

  

Souvlaki and gyro pitas. Damn good.


Moussaka. I [M] have called moussaka one of my favorite dishes for awhile. But the only one I’ve eaten is the moussaka my dad makes. His is what made me fall in love with it. I’ve been looking forward to having it in Greece someday for years. But honestly…the one my dad makes is better than this one! I think I should give it another chance at another place in Greece. But I don’t know…I didn't realize that traditionally it has potatoes, which my dad doesn’t use when he makes it. Both of us think the potatoes detract. Anyway, yummy, but dad’s definitely wins so far!


 Pork and bell peppers. The peppers were really the highlight. This was one of the first things we ate in Greece, and had a very "yep, I'm going to like it here" effect.

 

Baked cheese in phyllo with honey and sesame on top, tatskiki, eggplant with balsamic and topped with red onions. Eggplant dish added to the Make For Box list.

  

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